Thursday, February 19, 2009

Tubular Waves, Wild Animals, and Mass Chaos

Well to start I am sorry that I have posted in a long time, but I do have good reason. The internet sucks in this country! So, I guess it’s not my fault. Since my last post I have done some incredible things, so this post may be a bit longer than that last few. Brace yourselves.

Jeffrey’s Bay

Today J’bay is the surf mecca of Africa and life is basically a Jack Johnson song. Life revolves around the waves, the beach, and the bar. We stayed at a place called the Island Vibe Backpacker that was just unreal. You basically walk into a giant beach bungalow with old surf boards covering the ceiling and photos of famous surfers from the billabong tournament that takes place there on the wall. The first day some of us went sandboarding, which is like snowboarding down sand dunes, while others did the beach and surfing thing. It was unbelievable how cool it was. When the day was winding down, the 20 of us that were there jumped in our cars and when to this really cool restaurant on the beach called Walskipper. It had the most beautiful view of the ocean since its outdoors and had thatched roofs and no walls and the floor was just sand. The seafood there was amazing. Right of the coast of where we were eating you could see the calamari fishermen out for a night troll (Jeffrey’s bay is where the most calamari is caught in the world). We went back to the backpacker only to find that the little tiki-esque bar inside was hopping. We had a few fishbowls and met people from all over the world, even Minnesota. Weird! The next morning was Valentine’s Day, and after not being able to sleep because of a hilarious nighttime incident with our sliding door, I decided to go out for a walk on the beach by myself at 6 a.m. It was probably one of the most surreal moments of my life. I was walking on the beach looking at seashell and walked into a flock of flamingoes. Then I looked out to sea and saw a school of dolphins jumping through the waves. With the waves crashing against the ocean rocks, sending up a giant sprays of mist, I couldn’t believe it. I still can’t.

Seaview

We left J’bay pretty early that day, but on our way home we decided to stop at a game farm called Seaview. Here you drive through a couple hundred hectares of open area where you can see brisbok, wildabeast, monkeys and other animals. Though these animals are pretty cool, Seaview is known for its lion dens. They don’t have free roaming lion there but have some areas fenced off for tigers and lions. The coolest part of the whole thing though, was that some of us got to go into the lion cages. For 5 bucks you could either go play with infant lions that were 9 weeks, or another group that was 4 months, or lastly the 10 month olds which are about the size of a full grown mountain lion. So of course we went in with the big guys. I was the first to go in and at first the lions were just laying on platform. After petting them for awhile they began to wake up a bit and started chewing on my arms or would swat me with their giant paws. The rest of the guys took their turn in the den and then I came back in with all of them. When I got in for the second time, the lions were wide awake, sprinting through the grass and jumping up trees. Before I knew it, I had a giant tooth sink into my butt and four paws with claws out grabbing different parts of my body. I braced myself and followed the instructions not to panic and just pushed the lion down. She was only trying to play with me. This happened probably 3 more times before we decided to leave.

Addo & Schotia

The day after getting back from J’bay and Seaview, we had our group excursion to Addo Elephant Park and to Schotia Game Reserve. These places were really cool, but to condense my post I am going to make this short. At Addo we drove around in a big bus, with our heads hang out the windows, looking for elephants and other animals. We had a really cool guide who seemed to know everything about everything. After a couple of hours there, we drove to Schotia Game Reserve, which is a game park that is privately owned. Here we broke up into small groups, covered ourselves with insulated ponchos because by this time the driest place in South Africa with experiencing torrential downpours and cold temps for even their winter months, and jumped into big 11 seater Jeeps. Though it was raining and cold, most of us agreed that we wouldn’t have had it any other way. And in the words of one of our favorite song writers, Toto, “God bless the rains down in Africa”. Between the two parks we saw: two adult elephants and two 2 calves, hippos, crocodiles, bushbok, zebra, rhinos, lions, giraffes, Cape Buffalo, tortoises, dung beetles, impala, springbok, brisbok, Wildabeast, and other antelope bovine type things that I can’t remember the name of right now. Check out my pictures that can be found on my Picasa web album

Pendla

Another new thing since my last post is that I have started my service work at Pendla school. It has been the most heartwarming/ heartbreaking, uncomfortable/welcoming experience so far. The moment we got there the school was going through a small crisis because the principal had a fainting spell right before we got there. Everything was a bit chaotic, but through it all the staff was able to continue with the planned welcoming ceremony. The ceremony was beautiful. The choir sang us wonderful African songs and some of them did traditional Xhosa dancing. Immediately after the ceremony we were place with our new teachers. I was assigned grade 3 with Ms. Ndumi (at least I think that is her name, its bit hard to understand her). My class is basically taught in Xhosa except for the lesson that Laura and I do together. The first day was really overwhelming because Ms. Ndumi had us sit in the back and just listen to them speak in Xhosa and every once in a while they would start to count in English. Sitting in the back of the room though, I was able to see that the conditions of the classroom are incredibly inadequate. The chairs are broken and some don’t have backs on them. The alphabet cards above the board only consist of six letters. Even the writing utensils are in bad shape. Though the conditions are bad, the teachers and kids seem happy. The first day I didn’t have much interaction with the kids, but that second day was a completely different story. I could get the kids off of me. We started the day with a lesson about good and bad foods that Laura and I planned the night before. Then it was time for to play for an hour. I would look around and each person from our group would have at least 20 kids surrounding them, grabbing on anywhere they could. I seem to be the pied-piper of all the younger boys. They would grab my arms and just rub them. They love arm hair. They would even rub it across their faces. It’s kind of weird, but adorable. Then we played soccer, well at least 20 kids on each team would run after a flat soccer ball on a field without grass, covered in rocks, and try to kick the ball between two big stones. My team won, 3-Nil, which is one of the only things that the kids could say to me. We walked back to the class room, my team grabbing on to me anywhere they could, singing some African soccer victory song. For the rest of the day, the boys in my class would turn around when the teacher was in the front of the class and stick of 3 fingers and a fist and say 3 –nil. I guess soccer transcends the language barrier and at least I speak that language.
That’s enough for now!

Peace and Love from Africa
Joe

Thursday, February 12, 2009

STUCK!

2-12-09
Well it’s been a couple of day since my last post and PE seems to be breaking down, just a little bit, but it’s still just unbelievable. Currently we are on the 5th day of a public transportation strike. Combies and Buses are completely closed down and we have to be shuttle back and forth in Gary’s five -seater Toyota. So far we haven’t been in any of the violent areas, but about a mile down the road the private taxi drivers are being thrown from their cars and people are taking away their keys so they can’t transport people. All of this is taking place because of some shady transportation dealings that are centered around the World Cup. This strike though has made it clear just how crucial public transportation is in this country. Women from the townships, which are over ten miles ways, have to leave for work just past three in the morning just to get there on time. Without work these people have no livelihood. It’s incredibly said. When we wake up in the morning at around 6 a.m., hundreds of students are stampeding down the street we live on just to get to their 8 o’clock class on time, which is still 4 more miles past our apartment. But even closer to home for us is that our maid (yes we have a maid that cleans for us every day and does our laundry and dishes) has not been able to get to work the last couple of days. I am not saying this because I am upset that she isn’t cleaning, but recently her grandson got into Rhodes University, which is a couple of hours from PE, and she needs the money to help support his schooling. Daphne has been very close to us boys in flat 7 and it’s upsetting to see that this lovely 80 year old woman has to walk so far because she can’t afford the miss another day’s work. Anyways the strike is rumored to end in a couple of days and hopefully things will get back to normal.
On a lighter note, this weekend we are heading off to Jeffery’s Bay, which is one the premiere surf locations in the world. This is where the Billabong surf competitions take place. On the way, we are stopping at Seaview animal park, where you play with lion cubs and see other big African animals. But what I am most excited for is our trip to Addo and Schotia on Sunday. It will be our first safari and I can hardly wait. Anyway, that’s enough for now and be watching from some new interesting posts about how my weekend goes.
Peace and Love from Africa
Joe

Tuesday, February 10, 2009

A Walk On The Wild Side

2-09-09
Well today is my first day of classes and I am really excited. The weather here has been a bit milder, even chilly at times, but it hasn’t put a damper on my trip. In fact, the last couple of days will probably be days that I will never forget. It started off with a combi (aka a taxi bus) ride into a part of town that probably wasn’t the safest area. As one of my friends said “I kind of feel like we’re walking through the middle of Compton” and I don’t think he was too far off. Forced to walk through some dark alleys in the middle of an unknown neighborhood, people were constantly telling me to get out of here. We pushed through and ended up, surprisingly, in the historic area of PE, filled with old colonial houses and beautiful churches. We continue on with our trek stopping at the Nelson Mandela Art Museum, which was very cool. It had some of the most beautiful artwork done by some amazing African artists and it was free. We decided to walk back to town a different way allowing us to experience something completely different. The street life changed from something that seem out of control to more of a Harlem circa 1970’s. The sides of building were painted with beautiful murals of jazz musician with their instruments in incredibly vibrant colors. The people on the street seemed to more alive and music was playing everywhere we went. This little excursion was definitely a way to see PE in a new light.
We also went to our first cricket match, which was crazy. I am now a huge fan of the 20 over games and will probably be spending a lot of time at the pitch from now on. One of the other students friends , who is a Johnnie alum who moved here after study abroad, was able to introduce us to one of the top cricket bowlers in South Africa and invited us to the cricketers house for a Braai, or South African barbeque. Later on that night we were picked up in a nice combi that is used to transport PE’s famous vistors, most recently Celine Deon, and driven by a private police officer, who will be the head off security for the 2010 World Cup. After 21 of us piled into the car, we were taken to a colored neighborhood. In South Africa a colored neighborhood is used to describe an area in which during apartheid people of mix races were forced to live. Today the neighborhoods still exist, but are only maintained by the strong sense of community that they as a group have created, rather than legal inforcement. Once we were there the men welcomed us and then the women came running outside and ordered us to dance with them. They are amazing people and treated us like kings and queens. Three hours later, after dancing constantly, the food was done and boy was I glad that I wasn’t a vegetarian any more. It was amazing. We have no clue as to what we were eating and every time we asked, they would simply reply “human” and then laugh a little. During dinner though is when we really got to me the people there. One woman had spent 6 years living in North Carolina and now returned to South Africa. She treated me as if I were here son all night and offered to open her home, which she continually reminded me was bigger than the one we were at, anytime we felt we needed. Another woman was a high ranking member of the Koyu tribe. The Koyu are one of the oldest tribes in all of Africa and have reminded prosperous even during the struggles with apartheid. We are now arranging a trip to visit the Queen and learn about their traditional practice of herbal medicine. I am so excited.
Well now I am off to Pendla school for the first time where I will be volunteering. This morning we will be welcome with a celebration performance by the kids which I hear is really cool.
Peace and Love from Africa
Joe

Friday, February 6, 2009

Juxtaposition

2-06-09
So now my South Africa experience is finally feeling a bit more structured and real. Over the past couple of days I have learned so much about the town that I am living and the school that I am attending. NMMU is a beautiful campus covered in palms and other tropical vegetation with signs all over the place saying not to feed the monkeys, but we haven’t even really seen one yet. Maybe that is because we have only been on campus twice. Port Elizabeth is just unbelievably beautiful. With waves crashing on sea rocks and break walls and beautiful African skies, there is no better backdrop for a night out while eating amazing food and having a few drinks with great people.
I know it sounds like I am living in paradise (which I sort of am), but I just had my first big serving of reality, which kindly reminded me of the problems South Africa faces today. Yesterday we had our first visit to New Brighton township just outside of PE. Our destination was a brand new, beautiful museum that was constructed to teach others about what township life is really like and to honor those who fought so hard against apartheid. The juxtaposition between the modern architecture of the building surrounded by the heaps of trash that some people call home, was astonishing. I can’t really grasp it still. After the tour of the township, and as we began to see a new face of South Africa, the tour company quickly moved us along to the largest shopping center in the developed area, Green Acres, where we were told to eat fast food and go shopping. Bizarre!
Now today we visited our first volunteer destination, the House of Resurrection AIDS Haven. First we met with the director, who is wonderfully spirited woman that has passion like I have never seen before. This woman who stands no more than 5 feet tall has the presence of someone twice her size. This became very clear when she began to tell stories about how she has told off every basically every major official in South Africa that has stood in the way of providing the children a good life. After a tour of the ground and living facilities, we had a chance to met the kids. I know it’s a bit clichĂ©, but African children are probably the cutest kids in the world. As we tried to get past broken English and heavy accents, we attempted to learn as much about these kids as we could in 15 minutes. The only big problem is that they are pretty big tricksters. I would ask one kid how old he was and he would tell me five. Then a minute later he would tell some else he was two. I have clue who he was telling the truth to, but it didn’t matter, he was just too cute! Anyway, it was lots of fun to met the kids and see the place where some of us will be working. The hardest part though is realizing that 90% of these kids are HIV positive. They are so full of life, and thinking that they are sick is almost impossible.
To close this post I want to leave you with one world that sums up my feelings about South Africa so far: Juxtaposition
In the past couple of days we have been constantly dragged back and forth from resort life on one of the most beautiful beaches I have ever been on to the scene of some of the most tragic poverty in the world. I go from eating at some of the nicest restaurants in South Africa where $7 US dollars can buy me anything to watching a mother and child digging through fields of trash to find food. I go from a building that is incredibly modern and comparable to new buildings found in the big cities of the US and then I walk out the front door and cannot see past the miles of shacks and garbage.
I guess this is Africa.

It Begins!

South Africa
1-27-09 to 2-01-09
So my journey to South Africa begins and I am feeling good about it. I really didn’t have any worries other than I wouldn’t be getting there fast enough. The traveling was good. Our first flight to Amsterdam took about 9 hours. On the way though, I met some great people who have given me some helpful advice on traveling. However, I got no sleep. I think I was just too excited. The second flight was a bit tougher on the body. The ten and a half hour flight seemed to never really end, but this time I got thirty minutes of sleep. When we got into Johannesburg, it was 10 o’clock and because of the construction for the updates need for the world cup in 2010 the entire airport had closed down. So our group decided to crash in front of a coffee shop with all our bags and passed the night away. Though we just spent 9 hours waiting to I have still not really slept. I was starting to feel tired but as we boarded the plane to Port Elizabeth, my adrenalin must have kicked in and I was ready to go.
Touch down in PE was a little bit emotional. We were all so happy that the traveling was finished and we had gotten to our new city. We were met by our directors Gary and Vilma and they were ready with cars to take us to our flats. As we were driving I really couldn’t believe I was here. I mean the people were driving on the other side of the street and I was sitting on the other side of the car as a passenger. We pulled up to the Langerry (our new home) and drove through the gate. We were pumped. Then Gary gave us our keys and told us we had ten minutes to put our stuff down and then we were off to the grocery story.
The grocery story may have been the most overwhelming thing so far. Gary and Vilma dropped us off at the door and waited outside. We had no clue what we needed or how things functioned here. All I know though is that I got a weeks worth of groceries (really nice stuff) for 200 Rand or 20 American dollars.
We headed home to the flats and met the girls who were already here and they were definitely tired being that they had just gotten their first really night sleep that night before and hear we were and its only 9 in the morning. Then I realized I hadn’t slept since the night before I left and was starting to get a little tired. BUT, the beach was calling my name. It was 80 degrees and it was still early and I found a boogie board in the one of the rooms. For the next couple of hours, we played in the water and hung out on the beach. After that we walked along the boardwalk and found a cool outdoor restaurant and had some great seafood and cocktails. A Hake and Calamari dinner with drinks all for less than 9 American dollars, and watching the sun set over the Indian Ocean while doing it. Nothing can beat this.
Today I woke up early and made my way to a little café down the beach and had breakfast. Some of the others showed up later and we began to plan the day. Because of some serious sunburn some of our group had, they decided to go to a shopping center and look around, while a few of us went o the beach again for some more fun in the ocean.
Now we are heading out for dinner and to celebrate the last night of the famous Toby Joe’s. I am sure we will have a blast.
Peace and Love
Joe